Conjugated in polite form: 답답해요 [dapdaphejo]
Definition: To be stuffy or stifling
Note: The English translation stated above does not correspond directly with the Korean definition, as the Korean definition is based partially on cultural connotations. However, based on my own experiences with the language, I have found that 답답해요 is most commonly used to express frustration at a specific situation. Less common, is the meaning of feeling ‘cramped’ or ‘confined’ either literally or figuratively.
Shopping 101
Before K-pop made its way to the American Music Awards, and before words like ‘kimchi’ and ‘bulgogi’ made their way onto restaurant menus, Korea was known for its high-fashion and various cosmetics. So of course, as a foreigner either travelling or living in Korea, you will want to take advantage and shop-til-you-drop. Only problem is: how exactly do you shop in a country where neither the clothes or products were intended for you to wear or use?
The answer is simple: You read this post.
No, but in all seriousness, you have to be smart. You cannot just go into a store and expect them to carry your size, because odds are they won’t. Especially in the boutiques or street stalls, where there is no such thing as ‘S, M, L, XL’ because in Korea one size is apparently supposed to fit all.
Even though it doesn’t.
Because some of us have larger chests or broader shoulders, thicker thighs or a bigger ass, and while there is absolutely nothing wrong with any of those things fact is that Koreans are typically built straight with no complicated curves.
So when you are out on the streets of Hongdae or wandering around Garosugil, I would recommend sticking to looser fitting shirts and sweaters, items that are a little bit less tight on the body unless you are really familiar with your shape and know what will and won’t be flattering for it. And as far as weight goes, I wouldn’t worry too much. I mean, I am 5’5 and 150lbs and at no point did I buy something that was too small for me, and that includes the Korean free size.
So in conclusion: know the clothes, and always remember that just because you got some extra cushion for the pushin’ doesn’t mean you are any less beautiful.
#ProTip
모르는 게 약이다 [moɹɣnɣn ge jækida]
Conjugated in polite form: 모르는 게 약이에요 [moɹɣnɣn ge jækiejo]
Definition: Ignorance is bliss
Note: N/A
좋다 [ʒoda]
Conjugated in polite form: 좋아요 [ʒowajo]
Definition: To be good
Note: In Korean this word has two common usages. The first of which is the same as the usage of the adjective ‘good’ in English, while the second is as a form of agreement. For instance, if a friend suggests a specific activity you can use 좋아요 in place of ‘yes’ or the expression ‘sounds good.’
미안하다 [mianhada]
Conjugated in polite form: 미안해요 [mianhejo]
Definition: ‘Sorry’
Note: Unlike in English where the word ‘sorry’ can be used in a multitude of situations, the word 미안해요 can only be used in situations where you are at fault i.e if you stepped on someone’s foot or were late to an event. It cannot be used to give condolences at a funeral, or to express sympathy.
Korean Cafés Pt. 1
Name: A Twosome Place
Location: South Korea
Rating: 5/10
Comments: You will find A Twosome Place in almost every city in Korea as it is probably the country’s most popular coffee chain. The lovechild of Starbucks and Tim Horton’s, it has your typical café menu of macchiatos, americanos, espressos and cappucinos but with the atmosphere of a good ol’ simple brew. And, like most Korean cafés, it boasts a spacious interior with ample seating and design accents perfect for a candid snap-shot. The only problem is that due to its popularity and convenience it tends to be a bit busier than some of the other spots on this list. Also, when it comes to quelling the appetite you will find more cakes and pastries than bagels and croissants.
Name: Ediya
Location: South Korea
Rating: 5.5/10
Comments: Another chain café, Ediya is the kind of joint you can hit up early in the morning when all you really need is that caffeine fix because like most of the places on this list it lacks suitable food options. Trust me, I once tried their grilled cheese and barely managed to finish it. But, on the upside, because they do open earlier you can get your cup of joe before rushing off to work, unlike with A Twosome Place. Also, the casual and homey design makes it the perfect spot to curl up with a book and people watch from the second storey windows.
Name: Holly’s
Location: South Korea
Rating: 6.5/10
Comments: As far as chain style cafés go, Holly’s is by far my favourite. It is usually quiet during the day, making it the perfect place to sit down with a friend and catch up, read a book, or write that novel you’ve been meaning to. They also offer one of the better breakfast selections with bagels and cream cheese as well as your typical sandwiches and pastries. It is kind of like an upgraded Tim Horton’s. Not necessarily as aesthetic as the other places on this list, but much cosier.
Name: Golden Crema
Location: Hongdae, Seoul South Korea
Rating: 4.5/10
Comments: Consisting of multiple levels, the Golden Crema offers its patrons the perfect spot to people watch whilst sipping on an affrogato or cappucino. And while there is no food options, the café does serve some delicious smoothies and parfaits. All of which can be had in their uniquely decorated seating area, filled with sanded wood and unusual light fixtures. It is calm, cosy, and absolutely ideal for those who shy away from the hustle and bustle of the business crowds.
Name: Coffee Bean
Location: Hongdae, Seoul South Korea
Rating: 4/10
Comments: What I remember most about this particular joint is the embarrassing exchange between myself and the barista. I had ordered their in house grind, thinking that I would try a regular coffee instead of a fancier latte, only to find myself engaging in a Korean conversation to which I understood about 10%. Luckily though, my common sense and reluctance to commit a social felony enabled me to walk away with a semi-drinkable caffeinated beverage. You, however, may not be so lucky and so I would recommend against going here unless you are comfortable with the language or plan on ordering a beverage that comes as is.
Name: The Humming Bella
Location: Hongdae, Seoul South Korea
Rating: 8.5/10
Comments: My friend and I were introduced to this place during my second trip to Korea. Located off the busy streets of Hongdae, The Humming Bella appeared like an alcove of serenity. With interior brick and wood accents, it practically begs for an impromptu photo-shoot. And the menu isn’t half bad either. They have a good selection of both coffee and tea, with cakes and fresh baked bread and pastries. The first time I went I ordered a peppermint tea which was served with a miniature pot on the side. The second time I ordered a latte and bread with red bean paste, which are depicted in the header image.
Name: Le Pouldu
Location: Jungang-ro, Daegu South Korea
Rating: 7/10
Comments: Comprised of two distinct levels, Le Pouldu is half bakery, half café and wholly delicious. The smell of fresh bread permeates the premises, while the kitschy design is more reminiscent of a Parisian street than downtown Daegu. I am talking hanging plants and wood tables, antique furniture and colorful shutters. It is a location worth committing to memory, both for aesthetic and overall atmosphere. The only downside is the limited drink menu, and compact seating. Luckily though, it is not a particularly busy place making it well suited to introverts such as myself.
Name: Café Pascucci
Location: South Korea
Rating: 6/10
Comments: From the moment you walk in you can tell that this is a place frequented by college and high-school students. Every table is adorned with either a laptop or a myriad of splayed out papers. It is hustling and bustling with life, making it a good spot to stop in late in the evening when you are looking for something a little more high energy. The red booths and black marble also elevate the design, giving it more of a night-club kind of feel. All of which is topped off by a fairly extensive drink menu and the typical Korean selection of sweets.
Name: Bread + Comma
Location: Yeonamdong, Seoul South Korea
Rating: 3/10
Comments: As a foreigner still uncomfortable with the language I found this place to be particularly confusing, as it is composed of two distinct cafes. The one on the lower level seems geared more towards coffee while the upper level is more brunch focused. In both cases though, the late opening hour and unclear menu presentation left me disappointed. Especially since I had been looking forward to trying the place.
Name: Raumkurst
Location: Jungang-ro, Daegu South Korea
Rating: 7.5/10
Comments: I am still unsure as to whether or not this place should be classified as a café or a lounge, but either way it was definitely one of my favourite spots. The interior is well lit and best described as swanky, with sleek marble and gold accents. It has class, to say the least. But it is far from superficial. Unlike other places you will find in Korea, this one does not use pure aesthetics to reel in its patrons. It has an extensive menu of high-class toast and drink options which yes, come with a decent price tag. But trust me when I say that every bite is worth it. This is the kind of place you can spend a day curling up inside whether you are a student, businessman or amateur writer. It has got that artistic vibe without the pretentiousness of Starbucks.
Name: Masso Coffee
Location: Jungang-ro, Daegu South Korea
Rating: 4/10
Comments: Honestly, there is not much to say about this joint. It is small, efficient and effective at providing its clientele with their daily dose of caffeine. There is no accoutrements, fancy lighting or unique accents. It is not the place you go to shoot your #OOTD. It is a pedestrian’s drive-thru. Quick, easy and above all simple.
Name: Coffee Brown
Location: Hongdae, Seoul South Korea
Rating: 7/10
Comments: This was the last café my friend and I went to during our trip to Korea, and while not the best on this list it was far from being the worst. Unfortunately though, it does not open until the afternoon, appealing to more of a brunch than breakfast crowd. But on the upside they have an extensive menu of sandwiches, waffles, and other lunch style foods alongside their assortment of beverages. Plus the decor makes it a worthy stop with rustic cushions and couches instead of your typical seating, as well as antique mirrors and large bay windows. It is the perfect location to take a friend, or even a blind date. Coffee Brown to put it simply is a high-class casual café.
La Familia
As I mentioned before, Canada has never felt like ‘home’ to me, at least not in the way it does for the majority of the population living under its flag. But that doesn’t mean that packing my bags and boarding a plane bound for a country almost seven thousand miles away is easy. I often find myself thinking about all the things I will be forced to leave behind, all the moments that I may miss, all the people I may lose to distance and that slow act of forgetting we call growing apart.
I wish I could take my family with me.
I wish that growing up I had not been so afraid for them to know me, keeping our relationship to the requisite hand full of hours spent at birthdays and holidays. I wish that I had let them in earlier, so that this parting could be said with sweeter sorrow. Instead of me wondering how many will continue to follow my adventure when my adventure stops being an adventure and simply becomes my life.
They all think this is temporary.
Or maybe, that’s what they hope?
After all no one in my family has spread their wings and flown so far before, so who’s to say that I won’t return, like a migratory bird? Although, even if I were to find myself planting roots in the soil of Korea, I would still find ways to return to Canada, to come back in time to wish them a Merry Christmas and Happy Birthday, to love them in the immediacy of the present without the blur of a stretched WiFi connection.
Because I want to know them.
I want to be someone that they can relate to, that my younger cousins can admire, that my aunts and uncles can be proud of. I don’t want to be the stranger at the dinner table that no one knows how to talk to because I’ve spent so much time building up walls with mileage points that it feels weird to be that close.
I want to be that person whose name they all say with a smile.
The one they all believed I could become, because my family has always seen in me the best and brightest, even when the best and brightest was buried under what felt at the time, to be a heavy shadow. A duvet of darkness.
But more than anything, I want to be a part of their lives.
And that is what scares me the most. That possibility that if I were to build a life for myself in Korea, that they would just drift away, leaving me to become another member of the family whose presence is best marked by scattered photographs. I don’t want to become an absence.
The empty place I leave behind I want filled with stories of my adventures, anecdotes mailed like love-notes to the people I can no longer see. I want my name to be passed around like my Grandmother’s gravy, to be a part of the conversation even if the dialogue is one sided.
I want my memory to be kept alive, until the day I can come back, take a seat, and say,
“Hey, what have I missed?”
Stage Session Vol.1
I was raised on music, on Zeppelin and Floyd and Neil Young, on the classic rock and roll of the 60s and 70s, interspersed with my mom’s occasional 90s track. I am talking Nelly’s “Ride Wit Me” and the Rocky Horror Picture Show’s “Time Warp.” I am talking singing at the wheel to “Walking on Sunshine” and “Tiny Dancer.”
My first concert was April Wine.
But nowadays, it is not the golden oldies that dominate my radio. It is the gritty back alley hip-hop from the streets of Seoul, South Korea. It is artists with dark circles and nicotine stains, and rhymes that dare you to pick a fight while simultaneously echoing back every emotion you haven’t been able to give a name to until just then. It is King Loopy proving his crown with his characteristic vibe and unique flow. It is Nafla bringing back boom-bap, and that old-school flavor. It is Nucksal and Deepflow with their authentic rap, stripped down to the basics. It is artists like MommySon who show the power of first impressions, and the value of second chances.
It is nights like this, when the lights go down and the bass is turned all the way up. When you can feel the beat reverberate in your bones and hear the voices of a hundred strangers singing the same words.
Imagine that, being an artist from a country whose language your audience may not know, and still having them sing along to every word. Imagine standing on that stage and looking out on a hundred faces, broken by a splitting smile. Imagine knowing that the words you wrote in the 4am dawn are the same words some person clings to, that the song you thought was not good enough is the very song stuck on repeat for some stranger thousands of miles away.
Imagine that feeling, the weight of it. Incredible, isn’t it?
But even more incredible still is the way these artists are able to slip out of that adoration, step off the pedestal, and return to the simple status of an ordinary person. How they can connect with their audience, exchanging soft smiles and tentative hello’s. Although, my hellos were more awkward than tentative, and instead of a soft smile I bestowed a quick exeunt, because how do you gracefully explain in the span of a minute the impact some of these artists have had on you?
How do you casually say to someone like Nucksal: “You know your song N.F.S…well, I have the lyrics ‘can just breathing be called being alive? We shine even brighter when we are ourselves’ tattooed along my rib-cage.”
or to someone like Loopy: “If your songs are masterpieces, wouldn’t that make you an artist, not a rapper?”
or to Nafla: “I am so proud to have someone like you active in the music industry; living proof, that you do not have to outshine others to be a star.”
How do you even begin to formulate the words, when your tongue is tied by every thought and emotion their songs have ever made you think or feel? See, language is still insufficient when it comes to expressing the most important aspects of the human experience. Which is why, as members of the audience, we scream until our lungs are made raw by the volume of our voices, and why as artists, they perform until every ounce of energy has been drained from their bodies.
And as of last night, I can attest to the fact that not one of these six artists leave any part of themselves behind on that stage. From the moment they grab hold of the microphone, they are lay-it-all-out-on-the-line, dive-head-first, pedal-to-the-medal, give-it-everything-we-got and then give-a-little-more. They are crank-up-the-volume and turn-the-fuck-up because when the beat-drops there is no other sound but applause.
Background
Despite having been born and raised in Canada, I have never called this country home. Home is my mother’s laugh, it is my father singing the lyrics to a song I don’t know as if his voice, off beat and out of tune, will somehow jar my memory. It is my inheritance; a large Italian nose and a penchant for classic rock and roll. I only need to look in the mirror or turn on the radio, and I am there. I am home, even when home is technically 6,583 miles away.
Which, in two months time, it will be.
See, four years ago I came to the realization that my life would not be lived here in Canada but in South Korea. A country whose history embodies what it means to be resilient, whose people have been bent but never broken, and whose culture is built on the notion that every individual is connected, as if we are all branches belonging to the same family tree. But when you are eighteen every dream is dubbed a phase, a passing fancy that no one believes will amount to anything more than an idea.
This is more than an idea.
This is reality, and it is scary and nerve-racking, and potentially a huge mistake. But if it is it will be the best one that I have ever made, because you cannot live bubble-wrapped in guarantees, and I refuse to be confined to something as mundane as a comfort zone.
This is my life…and it starts in
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Echoes From The 6ix 